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Every Halloween, Astoria’s downtown merchants sponsor trick-or-treating from 3 to 5. Kids in their costumes mill up and down the streets at what has to be the easiest pickings available. We don’t have a mall, so downtown suffices. Because it’s early, they don’t even suffer much in the cold. Their parents do, suffer that is, for entirely different reasons.

Downtown is a gentle sort of mayhem on Halloween. Most vendors either buyร‚ย  the assorted chocolate bag or the assorted sugar bag from costco. A few cheap out and push starlight mints or religious tracks at the kids. Fewer still buy the good stuff: handing out full sized candy bars and fancy candy. A local swanky kid’s store gave out individually wrapped truffles this year. Boy Wonder scored an orange cream one and when we sorted his candy last night, all three of us spotted it at once and dove for the chocolate shouting, “Truffle!!.” Our mamas didn’t raise any fools.

But there is one place that out does the rest. A sainted woman stands outside Danish Made Bakery and hands out fresh donut-holes to all the kids. Glazed balls of bliss. Oh. My.

Not that I got to eat one. Which is why, every Halloween, I say to myself, “Self, you must go into Danish Made and buy some donuts for later in the evening.” Of course, that never happens. There is the crush of childish humanity in the first place. Kids everywhere. We are only a town of 10 thousand, and I’m pretty sure 8 thousand of those are kids. And then there is my own child, who is anxious to keep moving and eager to get this part of the day done. He knows, and I know, that our final destination at 5 pm is to meet his father at our favorite coffee house for hot chocolates. Yes, more sugar. And so, I consider all this as I walk past Danish Made every Halloween and I say to myself, “Self, how much sugar do you really need?”

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Of course, the night winds down eventually. Our festivities come to a close and eventually I find myself hanging out with IZ reflecting on our day. Every Halloween seems to top the last one. This year, the boy came down the stairs several times after bedtime to say thank you for all the joy of the day. I can’t blame him—what’s not to love about dress up and candy and pizza and the ability to share it all with real friends? A lovely day even without a donut.

Today is All Saints Day. A holiday that goes without much notice. And not that we need any more sugar in this house, but it has traditionally become a day for Danish Made donuts. Having spent the night wishing we’d been wiser, IZ and I usually break down sometime on 1 November and head out for the bakery. This year, it was my turn. As I came in the door from running errands, IZ met me in the hall and said, “Please tell me you got donuts.” I grinned and handed over the bag.

It’s probably not the most traditional way to celebrate this day, where we remember those who went before us , those who did remarkable things. People who made a difference and changed their worlds. But we like to think of it as a holy kind of expression. Coffee and donuts; a different sort of Eucharist.

Next year, when the smell of sweet sugar meets me on the street, I’m going to say to myself, “Self, All Saints Day means donuts from Danish Made. Today is only Halloween.”